Sunday, January 4, 2026

Train and mountain road travel in 2026 from Mumbai to Dalhousie and Mcleodganj in State of Himachal Pradesh in India.

 Decided to begin New Year month of January  2026 by exploring  the hill stations of Dalhousie and Mcleodganj .These were  the last two major tourist destinations that had alluded me in India during my employment as " Marine Engineer " doing the circumnavigation of  East and West coastal ports of  India through  coastal shipping  and later personal  criss-cross country travel by road and rail  across India.Travel keeps me alive, mentally and physically. 

Monday(5/1/2026) Departure Mumbai to Pathankot and arrival Dalhousie on Tuesday(6/1/2026) :- Boarded the " 12471 Swaraj Express" into compartment " S5/ Seat 52"at Bandra Terminus for destination Pathankot in State of Punjab. Exactly at 1100 hrs the train departed Bandra terminus with my journey to Pathankot being 1850 Km with  a travel  time frame of 26 hrs if reaching on scheduled time.I love these occasional  2nd class  long distance train travels within India that exposes me to the train journeys providing scenic views of India's vast geographical biodiversity through different States .Accustomed to  comfortable luxury living in my house in Mumbai these occasional " 2nd Class" train marathon travels  personally allows me to  experience the travel hardships of the average Indian middle class train  traveller.Would advice every Non- Indian origin foreign tourist to travel long distance " Second Class" to experience India in its true biodiversity and cultures as also the practical train travel hardships of overcrowding on occasions.In " First Class/ 3 Tier A/c" travel on trains there are no hawkers with their unique sales gimmicks nor occasionally at times unreserved passengers overcrowding the compartment as in" 2nd Class sleeper Reservation". At night it was a horror " Slum class  train travel" which I had  experienced a decade ago on a different train  with unreserved passengers sleeping on the compartment floor in the almost freezing cold night .A sleepless night due to the intense cold wave of  9* c temp and no proper warm clothing on the bunk of a overcrowded train.Due to dense fog and poor visibility the train on Tuesday morning  was behind schedule and as they say among travellers that it's the journey that matters and not the end destination.This train caters more to pilgrims visiting Vaishnodevi Temple at Katra which is also the last stop of this train and hence  only vegetarian food is served on the train ,both by  onboard canteen as well as railway hawkers.For the first time during my train jorneys spent the entire morning lying down on my bunk bed,akin to a hospital patient,catching up on my reading through the digital print and not paperback reading material that i usually carried before invention of the Internet .Lunch at 1300 hrs was a excellent vegetarian lunch box prepred in the train pantry costing only Rs 150.Excellent lunch in comparison to the chill cold long train journey akin to slum tourism  living.Celibrity Adventurer Bear Grylls would have found it real adventurous if in my situation on the train.Authentic train travel survival. Train was late by 31/2 hrs and finally at 1630 hrs reached Pathankot Railway station.Train travel educates.Alighted the train and on inquiry crossed the railway tracks and walked a short distance  towards the main highway road .There were some rickshaws parked near this main highway bus stand having a few Dhaba shops .The main landmark of this highway bus stand is the " Pathankot Liquor shop" situated on the opposite road of the bus stop.There were lot of travellers waiting for different buses or taxi's and I was the lone backpacker heading to Dalhousie.Dalhousie is approximately 82 Kms from Pathankot and was told that there was a local bus to Dalhousie and taxi's were available for Rs 2500- Rs 3000.Worth if I was in a group of 4 or more  but definitely not as a " Solo" traveller.Had a omelette snack at the Dhaba and after almost a hour finally at 1735 boarded a local bus to Banikhet , the ticket costing Rs 150.Banikhet is approximately 10 Kms from Dalhousie and reaching somewhere is better than reaching nowhere.This was the common local bus packed to capacity with standing passengers. Lucky to at least get a bus towards Dalhousie as it is off- season and late night.Arrived at Banikhet at approximately 2015 hrs.From Banikhet hired a brand new 3 month old Dzire taxi at a charge of Rs 400 and it was a nice 10 Km  winding mountain drive towards Dalhousie and on the highway spotted a fox waiting to cross the road.Kartik the driver explained me the various tourist spots during the drive.Finally at 2050 hrs reached the foothill of " Hosteller( Dalhousie)" situated on the slopes of Moti Tibba hill. From the base of the foothill it was a taxing uphill trek to " Hosteller", a magnificent plush " First World Hostel", a distance away from the overnight " 2nd Class train slum" accomodation I had experienced. Christmas and New Year decor was intact in the main reception lobby which was housefull upto the New Year. Mr Anurag the manager welcomed me and explained the  functioning of the hostel, total digital payments as well as digital security.Was allotted " Room No 105" .The room had 4 double deck beds  and hence a maximum capacity of 8 guests in this plush room.A young traveller Mr Manav who was on the next bed, the first person i met in the room.After a excellent hot jaczy style bath lay on my bed covered with double quilt blankets .Had a decent nights sleep in comparison to my horrible " 2nd Class slum Train " travel , a idea borrowed from politician Mr Sashi Tharoor  while describing economy air travel in some airlines by middle class Indians as " Cattle class" travel .

Wednesday (7/1/2026) Dalhousie:- After a good nights 4 hours recovery sleep got dressed in warm thermals.A thermal artificial fur cap collected as a souvenir in a former Communist country during my sailing era in the " Merchant Navy" in the  1990's that I now used after 30 years in hibernation." OLD WINTER FASHION BACK IN VOGUE " !  At the breakfast dining hall met co- roommate  young 24 Year old motorcycling enthusiast Mr Mamoon .Ahmed.Khan who loved cruising the hill stations of North India on his " Bullet 350".Breakfast was excellent " Paratha/ Sabzi/ Chai" costing Rs 189 and enough to last the day.After breakfast began my exploration of Dalhousie by walking out of plush " Hosteller" situated halfway aalongthe peak of Mota Tibba hill having hotel and lodges along it's sloping face.At the base of the hill is Subhash Chowk having a statue of Subhash Chandra Bose.  Facing the chowk is " St Francis Church" built in 1873 and dedicated to St Francis Assisi. A historic small Catholic church built on top of a small hill.Visited the church that was undergoing external renovations and definitely one of the beautiful heritage churches of North India.From the Church inquiring directions walked along " GARAM SADAK" ,a narrow mountain road that leads to Dalhousie Mall Road at Gandhi Chowk,the main Town centre of Dalhousie.From Subhash Chandra Bose Chowk it was a beautiful morning walk along " Garam Sadak( Hot Road)" ,so named because it always receives sunshine ,keeping the road warm.On the way stopped for a cup of Chai at a road side Dhaba and was entertained by the numerous bold langurs in the vicinity.Walking along the narrow road admiring the dense evergreen forests in the distance suddenly came across a scene  straight out of a National Geographic Vmdocumentary.A dead monkey , a victim of a road kill was lying dead on the road and a stray dog was trying to bite chunks of flesh from the freshly dead langur.As I was video graphing the same, bizzarely a langur released it's excreta from a tree above me onto  my jacket, akin to crow shit.Only difference was that this Monkey shit resembled a chunk of cow dung, a first time experience in my life having visited numerous National parks and forests.Truth is stranger than fiction.Finally reached " Gandhi Chowk" that has a statue of Mahatma Gandhi and is  the main shopping centre of Dalhousie.There is a " Taxi Union Stand" just next to entrance of St Francis Church with taxi's for hire.The view of the snow capped Dhaulandhar mountain range is awesome when seen from Gandhi Chowk view point." JIO Internet" was excellent at Gadhi chowk as also at Subhash Chowk  and seems only " Hosteller " with all it's luxurious amenities and 21st century sophisticated digitization  has the weakest in-house wifi in Dalhousie.Truth is stranger than fiction.Had some rest updating my travelogue.Later  had a external look at St Johns Church, a Protestant church whose main gate was closed.Entered  the Tibetan market and the " Mall" which is a large row of shops.From the Mall took a flight of stairs to the Upper road which I mistook to be " Thanda Sadak( Cold Road)" that I had discovered in the morning but to my surprise realized I had landed on " Airforce Road". Made my way back to " Mall Road" and inquiring directions took the " Thanda Sadak" road used by heavy vehicles to Subhash Chowk.This was a slightly longer route and on the route came across the main " Dalhousie Lookoutpoint" that offers a 180* view of the Dhaulandhar mountain range and the mountainside villages.Weather was beautiful, cold with bright sunshine and at my young age realized I was covering miles without fatigue.Finally reached Subhash Chowk and realized Dalhousie is a tiny hill station .Numerous harmless stray dogs as also langurs and macaque monkeys co- existing .Relaxed in my home away from home " Room No 105" which was now almost full with guests.Got my jacket cleaned off the " Monkey Shit" and observed the antics of the hilarious Macaques that are numerous within " Hosteller " as it is situated on the slopes of Moti Tibba hill.These langurs are aggressive and at times use the outdoor garden viewing terrace as their playground.Hostel staff at times are busy shooing away the macaque and langurs.In the evening akin to a local walked down to Subhash chowk and sat on the public bench updating my travelogue as WiFi is excellent outside the hostel premises.One of the stray dogs approached me as if I was it's long lost pet parent.Pawing my leg for food as these stray dogs are accustomed to being fed by tourists.As sunset approached it was again getting chill cold and made my way to a narrow downhill lane situated within Subhash Chowk and dinner was " Chicken Biryani " at classic " Old Sher E Punjab" restaurant.The bill amounted to Rs 360 and meant for 2 persons.Parceled a part of the meal as dinner for my new pet stray dog  friend .Akin to a " Animal Communicator" anywhere or any part of the Globe animals have a strange affection towards me.Took a photograph with the Grand Christmas / New Decor of the hostel which was housefull upto New Year.Orthodox Christians celebrate Christmas on Wednesday 7th January .Had a early decent nightsv4 hrs sleep in the warm cost comfort of " Room Nos 105".


Thursday (8/1/2026)Dalhousie:- At 0715 hrs left the hostel and had a long downhill walk to " Dalhousie Bus Stand" to board the bus to Khajjiar nicknamed " The Switzerland of India".Arriving at the bus stand had my morning cuppa Chai at the only open tea stall " Vaishno Dhaba" that was playing excellent local religious  music.Had a second cup of Chai along with a samosa at " Prem Sweets" next to bus stand.At 0910 boarded the bus to Khajjiar situated at a distance of 22 Kms from Dalhousie.  A long mountainous narrow well paved road ascending through mountain tops and observed ice formation along the sides of the road .Passed alongside landmark Dalhousie public school.Reached Khajjiar at 1015 hrs and it was a sight seeing a large meadow surrounded by dense hill forest on all sidesNo sign of snow or snowfall, absolutely barren meadow with a small natural wetland pond in its centre..Excellent weather, bright sunny day with cold weather requiring jackets with me wearing three layers of Upper clothing.There were not many tourists as I was early and gradually the narrow mountain highway parking lot got filled with tourist cars.Took a typical tourist photograph with a rabbit and a dove.Numerous horses for horse rides and my agenda was doing a refresher course in " HORSE RIDING" at Khajjiar. Last did some genuine authentic horse riding at the " Amateur Riders Club" at the Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai where I was granted a certificate on completion of the course.Finally after over a decade decided to do some serious long distance horse riding or just a trot along a ground.At about 1040 a horse owner approached me for a ride along the mountain trail that finally led to " Mystic Village" resort.After much price haggling horse owner cum guide Shri Bittu .Kumar agreed to a price of Rs 1500 for a complete ride to " Mystic Village" situated at  a height of 2100 metres and approx 2 Kms distance from Khajjiar .Mounted his beautiful 7 year old  Kathiawar breed   dark bay horse " RAFTAR" and began my ride from the entrance  gate of Khajjiar Meadow.Was surprised that my horse riding basic skills was not forgotten and literally rode the horse on a walk and at time a light trot all by myself.Guide/ Horse owner Bittu at times just held the guiding reins of the horse otherwise anyone would think I was a daily hobby horse rider.Guide Bittu filmed me also making a few videos along the treacherous mountain road.I was also the first tourist horse rider of the day riding towards " Mystic Village".This was my first genuine horse ride after my " Amateur Riders" horse riding course." RAFTAR" was a excellent specimen of a riding horse and obeyed my rein and foot tap commands through the steep narrow mountain road that had inclines and declines with the occasional tourist Jeep passing along.Passed alongside a village below the mountain road having a large statue of Hanuman.Also got to view the majestic Dhaulandhar mountain range through the pine tree forests in the distance .Finally at 1110 reached the entrance gate of " Mystic village" where Guide Bittu parked " Raftar" while I made my entry into this eco resort village that had a majestic view of the Chamba valley below and the Dhaulandhar mountain range in the distance.The resort had basic extreme sports  like " Zip Cycling" and " Zip Lining" and was worth the 2 Km horse trot from Khajjiar. Had lunch of " Momo's/ Tea" at the resort restaurant and at approximately 1200 hrs made our way down the mountain trail back to Khajjiar. Came across numerous jeeps as well as horse Riders making their was up the mountain trail to " Mystic Village".Finally all good rides have to come  to a end and at 1230 hrs was back at the entrance gate of Khajjiar .Entered the sprawling meadow filled with tourists and was approached by guides for " Tandem Paragliding"  as also for " Zorbing" " Tandem Paragliding" is Rs 1500 for the shortest distance with prices ascending with distance and time limit." Zorbing" cost Rs 500 for a 100 meters roll on the meadow.I was thrilled and totally satisfied having ridden a genuine horse on a genuine mountain trail for a total distance of 4Km.As for extreme adventure sports have done everything possible in " Civilian Extreme Sports" in most exotic parts of the Globe.I could count today's horse trek on " Raftar" on par with my best extreme sports in the World ! Yes, no exaggeration.Relaxing on a bench outside Khajjiar cane across biker/ hostel mare Mamoon.Khan who was on his way to Dharamshala on his " Bullet 350", a replica of my bike.Biarsed the bus to Dalhousie at 1530 hrs, the last bus of the day.A beautiful mountainside drive back to Dalhousie Bus Station at 1630 hrs and from the bus depot a long strenuous uphill walk to Subhash chowk. 

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