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| In " Tourist Stand" at " Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association stadium , Dharamshala" . The highest elevation Test Cricket stadium in the World. Beautiful Cricket stadium with Dhauladhar Mountain chain in the background. |
Decided to begin New Year month of January 2026 by exploring the hill stations of Dalhousie and Mcleodganj .These were the last two major tourist destinations that had alluded me in India during my employment as " Marine Engineer " doing the circumnavigation of East and West coastal ports of India through coastal shipping and later post shipping retirement in 2006 my own personal criss-cross country travel by road and rail across India.Travel keeps me alive, mentally and physically.
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| Arrival Dalhousie after a marathon train, bus and taxi commuting which took a total of 34 hrs from departure in Mumbai.. |
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| "The Hosteller ", my residence in Dalhousie on Moti Tibba at Subhash Chowk. |
Monday(5/1/2026) Departure Mumbai to Pathankot and arrival Dalhousie on Tuesday(6/1/2026) :- Boarded the " 12471 Swaraj Express" into compartment " S5/ Seat 52"at Bandra Terminus for destination Pathankot in State of Punjab. Exactly at 1100 hrs the train departed Bandra terminus with my journey to Pathankot being 1850 Km with a travel time frame of 26 hrs if reaching on scheduled time.I love these occasional 2nd class long distance train travels within India that exposes me to the train journeys providing scenic views of India's vast geographical biodiversity through different States .
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| Landmark St Francis Assisi Catholic Church built in 1873 at Subhash Chowk in Dalhousie. A beautiful iconic church situated atop a small hill . |
Accustomed to comfortable luxury living in my house in Mumbai these occasional " 2nd Class" train marathon travels personally allows me to experience the travel hardships of the average Indian middle class train traveller.
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| Indo Tibetan market at Gandhi Chowk in Dalhousie. Tibetan handicrafts and clothing. |
Would advice every Non- Indian origin foreign tourist to travel long distance " Second Class" to experience India in its true biodiversity and cultures as also the practical train travel hardships of overcrowding on occasions.In " First Class/ 3 Tier A/c" travel on trains there are no hawkers with their unique sales gimmicks nor occasionally at times unreserved passengers overcrowding the compartment as in" 2nd Class sleeper Reservation". At night it was a horror " Slum class train travel" which I had experienced a decade ago on a different train with unreserved passengers sleeping on the compartment floor in the almost freezing cold night .A sleepless night due to the intense cold wave of 9* c temp and no proper warm clothing on the bunk of a overcrowded train.Due to dense fog and poor visibility the train on Tuesday morning was behind schedule and as they say among travellers that it's the journey that matters and not the end destination.This train caters more to pilgrims visiting Vaishnodevi Temple at Katra which is also the last stop of this train and hence only vegetarian food is served on the train , both by onboard canteen as well as railway hawkers.For the first time during my train jorneys spent the entire morning lying down on my bunk bed,akin to a hospital patient,catching up on my reading through the digital print and not paperback reading material that i usually carried before invention of the Internet .Lunch at 1300 hrs was a excellent vegetarian lunch box prepred in the train pantry costing only Rs 150.Excellent lunch in comparison to the long chill cold train journey akin to slum tourism living.
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| " Dalhousie Mall " at Gandhi Chowk ".Shopping and street food locale of Dalhousie. |
Celebrity Adventurer Bear Grylls would have found it real adventurous if in my situation on the train.Authentic train travel survival. Train was late by 31/2 hrs due to winter fog visibility and finally at 1630 hrs reached Pathankot Railway station.Train travel educates.Alighted the train and on inquiry crossed the railway tracks and walked a short distance towards the main Pathankot highway road .There were some rickshaws parked near this main highway bus stand having a few Dhaba shops .The main landmark of this highway bus stand is the " Pathankot Liquor shop" situated on the opposite road of the bus stop.There were lot of travellers waiting for different buses or taxi's and I was the lone backpacker heading to Dalhousie.Dalhousie is approximately 82 Kms from Pathankot and was told that there was a local bus to Dalhousie and taxi's were available for Rs 2500- Rs 3000.Worth if I was in a group of 4 or more but definitely not as a " Solo" traveller.Had a omelette snack at the Dhaba and after almost a hour finally at 1735 hrs boarded a local bus to Banikhet , the ticket costing Rs 150.Banikhet is approximately 10 Kms from Dalhousie and reaching somewhere close to Dalhousie is better than reaching nowhere.This was the last common local bus of the day packed to capacity with standing passengers. Lucky to at least get a bus towards Dalhousie as it was off- season and late night.Arrived at Banikhet at approximately 2015 hrs.From Banikhet hired a brand new 3 month old Dzire taxi at a charge of Rs 400 and it was a nice 10 Km winding mountain drive towards Dalhousie and on the highway spotted a Jackal waiting to cross the road. Is sighting a Jackal a good omen !
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| Grocery shop on Air Force Road in Dalhousie |
Kartik the driver explained me the various tourist spots during the drive.Finally at 2050 hrs reached the foothill of " The Hosteller, Dalhousie" situated on the slopes of Moti Tibba hill.Dalhousie was founded in 1850 as a summer retreat by Lord Dalhousie and is spread over the five hills of Kathlog.Potreyn,Terah,Bakrota and Bhangora in Himachal Pradesh. From the base of the foothill it was a taxing uphill trek to " The Hosteller", a magnificent plush " First World Hostel" inaugurated in February 2025, a distance away in ambiance and comfort in comparison to the overnight " 2nd Class slum train " accommodation I had endured. Christmas and New Year decor was intact in the main reception lobby which was housefull with guests upto the New Year.
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| Breakfast in " The Hosteller ",a ultra modern digital era hostel.Extreme cold temps with no snowfall. Wearing Winter Headgear akin to a Eskimo ? |
Mr Anurag the assistant manager welcomed me and explained the functioning of the hostel, total digital payments as well as digital security lock.Was allotted " Room No 105" and " Bed No 8" .The room had 4 double deck beds and hence a maximum capacity of 8 guests in this plush room.A young traveller Mr Manav who was on the next bed was the first person i met in the room.After a excellent hot jacuzzi style bath lay on my bed covered with double quilt blankets .Had a decent night's sleep in comparison to my horrible " 2nd Class slum Train " travel , a idea borrowed from politician Mr Shashi Tharoor while describing economy air travel in some airlines by middle class Indians as " Cattle class" travel which I have experienced myself on numerous occasions.
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| " SUBHASH CHOWK " in Dalhousie. Picturesque view of the surrounding hills from this vantage point.Very clean and seating benches around the main square .Less crowded than Gandhi Chowk and very serene and peaceful.In 1937 Freedom Fighter Subhash Chandra Bose spent about 7 months in Dalhousie recovering from a illness after his release from British House arrest.Hence Subhash Chowk and Subhash Baoli in Dalhousie are named in his honour. |
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| Grand Christmas and New Year decor in " The Hosteller " reception Hall.Was housefull during the end of the year holiday season. Orthodox Christians celebrate Christmas on 7 January. |
Wednesday (7/1/2026) Dalhousie:- After a good nights 4 hours recovery sleep got dressed in warm thermals.Wore a thermal artificial fur cap collected as a souvenir in a former Communist country during my sailing era in the " Merchant Navy" in the 1990's and same used after 30 years in hibernation." OLD WINTER FASHION BACK IN VOGUE " ! At the breakfast dining hall met co- roommate young 24 Year old motorcycling enthusiast Mr Mamoon .Ahmed.Khan who loved cruising the hill stations of North India on his " Bullet 350".Breakfast was excellent " Paratha/ Sabzi/ Chai" costing Rs 189 and enough to last the day.After breakfast began my exploration of Dalhousie by walking out of plush " The Hosteller" situated halfway along the peak of Mota Tibba hill having hotel's and lodges along its sloping face.At the base of the hill is Subhash Chowk having a statue of Subhash Chandra Bose. Facing the chowk is " St Francis Church" built in 1873 and dedicated to St Francis Assisi. A historic small Catholic church built on top of a small hill.Visited the church that was undergoing external renovations and definitely one of the beautiful heritage churches of North India.
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| Subhash Chowk Taxi stand.Notice the cleanliness. Lot of Macaques and Langurs in the vicinity. |
There is a " Taxi Union Stand" just next to entrance of St Francis Church with taxis for hire.From the Church inquiring directions walked along " GARAM SADAK" ,a narrow mountain road that leads to Dalhousie Mall Road at Gandhi Chowk,the main Town centre of the Eastern extreme end of Dalhousie.From Subhash Chandra Bose Chowk it was a beautiful morning walk along " Garam Sadak( Hot Road)" ,so named because it always receives sunshine ,keeping the road warm.
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| Walking along "Garam Sadak/ Mall Road" came across this tragic and cruel sight common in the natural wild. This dead Langur in front of of plush Rudra Inn hotel was victim of a "Road Kill" and this stray dog was trying to eat it. |
On the way stopped for a cup of Chai at a road side Dhaba and was entertained by the numerous bold langurs in the vicinity.Walking along the narrow road admiring the dense evergreen forests in the distance suddenly came across a scene straight out of a National Geographic documentary.A dead Langur monkey , a victim of a road kill was lying dead on the road and a stray dog was trying to bite chunks of flesh from the freshly dead langur.As I was video graphing the same, bizarrely. a langur released it's excreta from a tree above me onto my jacket, akin to crow shit.Fortunately it missed my winter headwear, a fashion statement.Only difference was that this Monkey shit resembled a chunk of cow dung, a first time experience in my life having visited numerous National parks and forests in India.Truth is stranger than fiction.Finally reached " Gandhi Chowk" that has a statue of Mahatma Gandhi and is the main shopping centre of Dalhousie..The view of the snow capped Dhauladhar mountain range is awesome when seen from Gandhi Chowk view point.
" JIO Internet" was excellent at Gandhi chowk as also at Subhash Chowk and seems only " The Hosteller " with all it's luxurious amenities and 21st century sophisticated digitization has the weakest in-house wifi in Dalhousie.
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| Locality in Gandhi Chowk in Dalhousie famous for its Non-Vegetarian Dhaba food shops.. |
Truth is stranger than fiction.The reason for the weak "WiFi Signal" was the presence of the Indian Air Force "740 Signal Unit" located at the highest altitude on Moti Tibba hill.Hence the Indian Air Force jams/weakens private server signals in the vicinity which directly affects Internet service inside the hostel premises. So " The Hosteller" was not to blame for weak inhouse internet service.Had some rest updating my travelogue at the public seating viewpoint at Gandhi Chowk.
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| Prominent landmark cafe in Dalhousie at Gandhi Chowk |
Later had a external look at St John's Church, a Protestant church whose main gate was closed.Entered the Tibetan market and the " Dalhousie Mall" which is a large row of shops.From the Mall took a flight of stairs to the Upper road which I mistook to be " Garam Sadak( Warm Road)" that I had discovered in the morning but to my surprise realized I had landed on " Airforce Road" that led to the airforce base.
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| At " Dalhousie Viewpoint " on " Thanda Sadak" road.Notice my unique " Eskimo Headgear" This is the main road for 4 wheel Vehicles between Gandhi Chowk and Subhash Chowk. |
Made my way back to " Gandhi Chowk " and inquiring directions took the " Thanda Sadak( Cold Road)" road used by heavy vehicles to Subhash Chowk.This was a slightly longer route and on the route came across the main " Dalhousie Look out point" that offers a 180* view of the Dhauladhar mountain range and the mountainside villages along the valley.Weather was beautiful, cold with bright sunshine and at my young age realized I was covering miles without fatigue.Finally reached Subhash Chowk and realized Dalhousie is a tiny hill station .Also on inquiry realized that " Garam Road" itself was the mall towards the Gandhi chowk end on this road that was the link road between Subhash Chowk and Gandhi Chowk at the extreme East- West ends of Dalhousie Town. Numerous harmless stray dogs as also langurs and macaque monkeys co- existing .Relaxed in my home away from home " Room No 105" which was now almost full with guests.Got my jacket cleaned off the " Monkey Shit" and observed the antics of the hilarious Macaques that are numerous within " Hosteller " as it is situated on the slopes of Moti Tibba hill.
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| "Chicken Biryani" at "Old Sher e Punjab with Himachali Kitchen " situated at Subhash Chowk.Has classic antique decor .One of the oldest restaurants in the locality. |
These langurs are aggressive and at times use the outdoor garden viewing terrace as their playground.Hostel staff at times are busy shooing away the macaque and langurs.In the evening akin to a local walked down to Subhash chowk and sat on the public bench updating my travelogue as WiFi is excellent outside the hostel premises.One of the stray dogs approached me as if I was it's long lost pet parent.Pawing my leg for food as these stray dogs are accustomed to being fed by tourists.
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| At Subhash Chowk Square. Friendly harmless stray dogs and this particular stray behaved as if i was its long lost non-human companion.Also gangs of Macaque monkeys frequent this area for tourist food and compete with the stray dogs.Hilarious at times. |
As sunset approached it was again getting chill cold and made my way to a narrow downhill lane situated within Subhash Chowk and dinner was " Chicken Biryani " at classic " Old Sher E Punjab" restaurant.The bill amounted to Rs 360 and meant for 2 persons.Parceled a part of the meal as dinner for my new pet stray dog friend .Akin to a so called " Animal Communicator", anywhere or any part of the Globe animals have a strange affection towards me.Took a photograph with the Grand Christmas / New Decor of the hostel which was housefull upto New Year.Orthodox Christians celebrate Christmas on Wednesday 7th January .Had a early decent nights 4 hrs sleep in the warm cosy comfort of " Room Nos 105".
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| GANDHI CHOWK in Dalhousie Main attraction and shopping locale of Dalhousie.Crowded locality of Dalhousie especially in the evenings . |
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| Khajjiar situated on a small plateau with evergreen cedar trees on the western edge of the Dhauladhar mountain range and is nicknamed the "Mini Switzerland of India". It is located at a altitude of 2000 mts(6500 ft) and has a wetland in the centre of the gigantic meadow. |
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| On Khajjiar Meadow. White rabbits and a dove. A common tourist photograph shoot at Hill Stations in North India. |
A long mountainous narrow well paved road ascending through mountain tops and observed ice formation along the sides of the road .Strangely, there was snowfall in Dalhousie on the New year day of 2026. But nothing since then besides the freezing cold.Passed alongside landmark Dalhousie public school.A diversionary mountain road leads to the trek to Dainkund Viewpoint, the highest mountain in Dalhousie .The mountain route is also in close proximity to Kalatop Khajjiar wildlife sanctuary.The Himalayan Black bear ,Ghoral deer and Monal pheasant is some of the wildlife in this sanctuary.Reached Khajjiar at 1015 hrs and it was a sight seeing a large meadow surrounded by dense evergreen pine hill forest on all sides.No sign of snow or snowfall, absolutely barren meadow with a small natural wetland pond in its centre.Excellent weather, bright sunny day with cold weather requiring jackets with me wearing three layers of Upper clothing.There were not many tourists as I was early and gradually the narrow mountain highway parking lot got filled with tourist cars.
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| Main entrance to Khajjiar plateau meadow(Mini Switzerland of India). Start of my 2Km horse ride on this Kathiawari horse "Raftar" along with horse guide/handler Shri Bittu Kumar.Rode from this entrance gate up the mountain to "NotOnMap-Mystic Village" situated at a altitude of 2100mts.A horse ride to remember for a lifetime. |
Took a typical tourist photograph with a rabbit and a dove.Numerous horses for horse rides and my agenda was doing a refresher course in " HORSE RIDING" at Khajjiar.
Last time that i did did some genuine authentic horse riding was 2 decades ago in May 2005 at the " Amateur Riders Club" at the Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai .I was granted a certificate on completion of the course and after that went into hibernation from the sport as " Horse Riding" is a expensive sport for daily rides at the " Amateur Riders Club " in Mumbai. Finally after over 2 decades having earned some serious " Moolah( Money)" and having ample time at my disposal decided to do some serious long distance horse riding or just a trot along the ground.At about 1040 hrs a horse owner approached me for a ride along the mountain trail that finally led to " Mystic Village" resort.After much price haggling , horse owner cum guide Shri Bittu .Kumar agreed to a price of Rs 1500 for a complete ride to " NotOnMap-Mystic village" situated at a height of 2100 metres and approx 2 Kms distance from Khajjiar Meadow .Mounted his handsome 7 year old Kathiawar breed dark bay horse " RAFTAAR" and began my ride from the entrance gate of Khajjiar Meadow.
Was surprised that my horse riding basic skills was not forgotten and literally rode the horse on a walk and at times , a light trot all by myself.
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| View of Dhauladhar Mountain range from "NotOnMap -Mystic Village" with its partial snow/Ice covered peaks.One of the best viewpoints of the Dhauladhar mountain range.This year snowfall was sparse for the month of January. |
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| Owner/Handler Shri Bittu Kumar and "Raftar" after completion of my ride. Excellently trained leisure riding horse. |
Guide/ Horse owner Bittu at times just held the guiding reins of the horse otherwise anyone would think I was a daily hobby horse rider.Guide Bittu filmed me, also making a few videos along the treacherous mountain road.I was also the first tourist horse rider of the day riding towards " NotOnMap-Mystic village ".This was my first genuine horse ride after my " Amateur Riders" horse riding course." RAFTAAR" was a excellent specimen of a riding horse and obeyed my rein and foot tap commands through the steep narrow mountain road that had inclines and declines with the occasional tourist Jeep passing alongside the narrow mountain pathway.Passed alongside a village below the mountain road having a large statue of Hanuman.Also got to view the majestic Dhauladhar mountain range through the dense coniferous tree forests in the distance .Finally at 1110 reached the entrance gate of " Mystic village" where Guide Bittu parked " Raftar" while I made my entry into this eco resort village that had a majestic view of the River Ravi and Chamba valley below as well as the Dhauladhar mountain range in the distance.
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| Basic Extreme sports of "CYCLE ZIPLINING" and "ZIPLINING" at "NotOnMap-Mystic Village Resort" in Khajjiar.The ambiance and mountain scenery as well as weather was indescribable. |
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| Giant statue of Hindu Deity Hanuman in the valley below " NotOnMap- Mystic Village " mountain. |
The resort had basic extreme sports like " Zip Cycling" and " Zip Lining" and was worth the 2 Km horse trot from Khajjiar. Had lunch of " Momo's/ Tea" at the resort restaurant and at approximately 1200 hrs made our way down the mountain trail back to Khajjiar. Came across numerous jeeps as well as horse Riders making their was up the mountain trail to " Mystic Village".Finally all good rides have to come to a end and at 1230 hrs was back at the entrance gate of Khajjiar Meadow .Entered the sprawling meadow filled with tourists and was approached by guides for " Tandem Paragliding" as also for " Zorbing" . " Tandem Paragliding" is Rs 1500 for the shortest distance with prices ascending with distance and time limit." Zorbing" cost Rs 500 for a 100 meters roll on the meadow.I was thrilled and totally satisfied having ridden a genuine horse on a genuine mountain trail for a total up and down distance of 4Km.
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| Yes,having visited almost entire Switzerland during my travels across the Globe ,quote, " I LOVE KHAJJIAR, MINI SWITZERLAND OF INDIA". |
As for extreme adventure sports , have done everything possible in " Civilian Extreme Sports" in the most exotic parts of the Globe.I could count today's horse trek on " Raftaar" on par with my best extreme sports around the World ! Yes, no exaggeration.Relaxing on a bench outside Khajjiar came across young biker/ hostel mate Mr Mamoon.Khan who was on his way to Dharamshala on his " Bullet 350", a replica of my bike.
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| As a "SOLO TRAVELLER" you are never ever alone. Throughout my travel history in India and across the Globe have met colourful talented co-travellers and adventurers. .Mr Mamoon.Khan from Delhi, my co-room mate in " The Hosteller" is a motorcycle cruiser enthusiast having travelled by his bike across all the hill stations in North India.He is riding my identical "RE Bullet 350" bike here in Khajjiar where i met him and was on his way to Dharamshala. |
Boarded the bus to Dalhousie at 1530 hrs, the last bus of the day.A beautiful mountainside drive reaching Dalhousie Bus Station at 1630 hrs .From the bus depot it was a long strenuous uphill walk to Subhash chowk. Relaxed in the cold on a bench at Subhash Chowk Square updating my travelogue and watching the hilarious antics of the monkeys. Macaque monkeys formed gangs in swarming across Subhash Chowk Square for leftover food of tourists ,challenging the stray dogs who ultimately had the upper hand.Dinner was excellent " Himachal Chicken" prepared by a roadside street vendor.Guests kept on changing in " Room No 105" as most of Dalhousie can be explored within 2 days or at maximum 3 days.Slept early but although insomniac did manage 4 hrs intermittent sleep.
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| A view of "PANCHPULA WATERFALLS" situated about 3 Kms from Gandhi Chowk in Dalhousie.During my visit the flow of water from the mountains was very less akin to flow from a open pipe as seen in this photo."Panchpula" means 5 bridges.A total of 5 different streams converge together to form this waterfall.Best viewed during the rainy season.This waterfall acts as a base to several treks around Dalhousie, like the trek to "Kali Mata Temple".Lots of extreme sports like "Ziplining","Swing" and "Rope Climbing" at this scenic picnic spot locale of Dalhousie. |
Friday (9/1/2026)Dalhousie: - At 0800 hrs with entire Subhash Chowk locale asleep went for a early morning stroll with my binoculars in 0" C temp in search of Chai but entire Subhash Chowk vicinity was closed.Decided to spend the next few days in " Dalhousie Retirement mode " just strolling around this tiny hill station, enjoying the views and extreme cold weather with bright morning sunshine.Watched the Langurs rummaging through the nights rubbish and later the Taxi stand Chai shop opened and refreshed myself with cups of tea.Walked towards the lateral eastern extreme end of Subhash Chowk past " Sacred Heart Secondary School " campus and came across " Dalhousie View" hotel with a excellent view of Dalhousie and Moti Tibba mountain side.Spotted a range of transmitters at the top of the Indian Air Force '740 Signal Unit" base , the reason for weak or almost negligible wifi in the surrounding vicinity as " Wifi" jammers are used,the only drawback of plush First World " The Hosteller ".
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| View of valley from "Dalhousie Viewpoint " hotel on Moti Tibba. |
Later made my way back to Subhash chowk hoping to find some restaurant open at 0900 hrs for breakfast but seems in winter restaurants remain closed until 1000 hrs.Walked down to " Garam Sadak/Mall Road" hoping the Dabba I had Chai yesterday would be open and to my goodluck another Dabba next to it was open.Breakfast was " Omelette/ bread/ Chai" with the owner showing me a shortcut to Hosteller from " Garam Sadak".After breakfast took the flight of uphill mountain stairs to accomodation " Hosteller".All new guests in " Room No 105" and was surprised to know one of the newcomers Mr Prameesh Pandit was a accomplished Hindi/ Gujarati writer and stage actor also involved in Hindi films. First time i came across a actor/ writer in my stays across different hostels across the Globe and India.Travel educates.Changed my attire and walked down " Garam Sadak/Mall Road " past Dalhousie Mall where the shops were just opening for business and parked myself on a mountain view bench at Gandhi chowk.Cold and chill weather in bright sunshine, just beautiful.
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| Breakfast at a Dhaba on "Garam Sadak/Mall Road" on my way from Subhash Chowk to Gandhi Chowk. My "Eskimo Hat" in hibernation for over 30 years was a big hit as a fashion statement throughout my travel across Dalhousie and Dharamshala.I myself was amazed. |
Visited St John's Protestant church which was open.Inquired directions to Panchpula Waterfalls and decided to walk 3 Kms downhill along Punj Pula road to the Waterfalls.Excellent lonely walk with me the only person walking along the road with dense coniferous forest on one side of the mountain.Was i actually in the World's most populous country,India ? As I walked I realized that returning back would be difficult as it would be a uphill walk although the cold weather prevents fatigue .Finally reached Panchpula Waterfalls situated at the top of a small hill requiring another strenuous step climbing. At the entrance to Panchpula waterfalls is a memorial statue to Revolutionary Sardar Ajit Singh.Lots of tourist shops and eatery stalls and quite a few tourists, all Indians .Finally reached the viewing point summit and was disappointed to view just a narrow gushing waterfall akin to water flowing from a large bore pipe.This spot is famous for adventure sports like rappelling, Zip lining as well as Tandem paragliding.I liked the ambiance of the locale rather than the trickling Waterfall.Had a cup of chai at " Shiva Cafe" situated next to the waterfall which also sold " Hookah", a novelty at Panchkula Waterfalls.
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| Panchpula Waterfalls is a popular picnic spot for couples and families. Lots of eateries as also Dhabas serving "Hookah" pipes. |
Tasted excellent sweet " Himachal Gulab Jamun" and made my way back, horrified of the thought of the 3 Km uphill walk.Luckily hitchhiked and scooterist Shri Pawan.Kumar. a local gave me a lift on his scooter.Had a little rest in the hostel , amazed at my own energy.Later thanks to local scooter rider Nitin took a lift back again to Gandhi Chowk for a non- veg meal at Dalhousie Kent Bus stand road which has a few Non- veg Punjabi style dhaba restaurants.After 1700 hrs these Dhabas serve only dinner .Dinner was at " Amritsar Special Chicken( Sunny Da Dhaba)".Excellent " Tawa Chicken/ Paratha". Normally I avoid Chicken dishes but in Dalhousie took a liking to the town's street food chicken preparation.After a lavish days lunch cum dinner costing just Rs 186 had a hot chocolate in Dalhousie Mall costing Rs 100, a World of difference in prices between Dhaba and plush fast food shops.Lots of tourists in the evening in Dalhousie Mall and Gandhi chowk.During my travels observed that in the hill stations of Himachal Pradesh vendors display white rabbits and a dove for photography shoots with tourists.
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| Interior view of Anglican(Protestant ) St John's Church at Gandhi Chowk in Dalhousie.Built during the Victorian era in 1863 this is the oldest and the first Protestant church in Dalhousie.The interior of the church has stained glass paintings of St John the Baptist and St Peter. |
Made my way back to the hostel along " Garam Sadak" and on the way filmed sunset over Sadar Bazar of Dalhousie.
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| Sunset over Sadar Bazar on Subhash C Chowk end of Dalhousie. Photographed from "Garam Sadak/Mall Road" .Below the road is the historic 3-star "Crags Hotel" built in 1893 and considered one of the best luxury hotels in Dalhousie. |
As usual sat on the bench at Subhash Chowk Square that attracts tourists in the evening and night.After a retirement style siesta followed the routine back up the steep hill stairs to " The Hosteller " where it was a musical chairs of guests departing and arriving with me being the oldest guest,both, in age as well as hostel stay. Most were young overnight bike riders who didn't stay for more than 2 days in Dalhousie.Most alarming news was the fact that someone had stolen my " FACEBOOK IDENTITY" and created a new identity projecting me as a International market trader.Flattering ,scary and hilarious for imitation is the best form of flattery and although making a living from investments never in my wildest dreams imagined I would be a " Poster Boy" a la Rakesh.Jhunjhunwala for a Investments scam site on " FB".Got everything corrected informing everyone about the scam on my " FB Site" .Bizarrely, my portfolio suffered one of its worst weekly market crashes due to the Venezuela crisis and U.S.A President Donald Trump politics on trade with India. Truth is stranger than fiction.
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| "SADAR BAZAR" of Dalhousie.Entrance from Subhash Chowk end of Dalhousie.Old colonial era wooden houses as well as modern housing clustered close together with narrow roads for only 2-wheeler vehicles situated along the inclined mountainside. Numerous Macaque and Langur monkeys within this tiny unique township within Dalhousie.Famous for the "Sanatam Dharam Temple" and "Gurudwara Singh Sabha" situated next to each other.For 4-wheeler vehicles there is the downhill "Court Hill Road(Subhash Chowk road) that terminates at entrance gate of "Dalhousie Civil Hospital". |
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| View of " Sadar Bazar " village from Subhash Chowk. |
Saturday(10/1/2026) Dalhousie:- As usual a late morning cup of chai at Subhash Chowk taxi stand tea stall.Later breakfast at 0930 hrs was " Puree Bhajee/ Chai" at the plush familiar Old World decor " Old Sher E Punjab with Himalaya Kitchen" situated at entrance to historic Sadar Bazar township of Dalhousie. After breakfast inquiring directions took the downhill " Court Hill Road( Subhash Chowk Road)" from the restaurant coming across shops opening for business with a section of the road terminating at the entrance gate of " Civil Hospital" that serves the medical needs of Dalhousie Town.
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| Sanatam Dharam Temple in Sadar Bazar established in 1880's. |
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| Gurudwara Singh Sabha situated next to Sanatam Dharam Temple.Religious place of worship for the Sikh Community of Dalhousie. |
From " Civil Hospital" took a narrow downhill road and entered actual " SADAR BAZAR" , the oldest residential and former business locality of Dalhousie Town.
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| A walk through unique Sadar Bazar . This part has modern buildings. |
" Sadar Bazar" village township is unique with old traditional as well as modern buildings existing side by side.Numerous Langurs and Macaque monkeys in this unique settlement of Dalhousie.Viewed externally the " Sanatam Dharam Temple" and the " Gurudwara Singh Sabha" situated in close proximity ,adjacent to each other.On my return walked up the strenuous hill steps of Sadar Bazar which had narrow paved inclined passages through the narrow gaps between buildings for 2 wheelers commuting.One had to be equivalent to a stunt 2-wheel rider to ride along this narrow uphill/downhill pathway between houses. A cute tiny historic village within Dalhousie Township.Came across a large " Macaque Monkey Gang" that amazed me by their sudden arrival in a pack of over a dozen ,in total confrontation mood with their Macaque growls.A scene i witnessed for the first time in my life and that too in human habitation and not a National park or jungle.Also came across numerous harmless stray dogs as well as puppies.Morning temp was 0 to +2* C while at noon temp climbs up to + 13 * C.Absolutely no snowfall in Dalhousie.From Subhash Chowk walked eastward to " Dalhousie View" hotel which has a excellent viewpoint of Mota Tibba and the town valley below.
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| A view of Old Sadar Bazar with its narrow hill road only for 2 wheelers. |
Excellent bright sunshine at + 9* C temp, a solo travellers delight.All the buildings in Dalhousie,both, modern concrete buildings or village cottages all have sloping tin roofs to cope with heavy seasonal rains and snowfall.Some of the older era houses have cute chimneys.Very hazy visibility of the Dhauladhar mountain range with its beautiful glacier tip peaks.Came across woodcutter's disassembling a recently felled Deodar tree( Coniferous) which was cut as it posed danger to the public.Deodar is costly wood at Rs 300/ foot and entire Dalhousie vicinity hills are thick with these evergreen trees that give this hill station it's beauty.Relaxed in the hostel cafeteria/ dining saloon and realized that wifi works excellently in the open air terrace garden of the hostel.Although there was bright sunshine in the afternoon the visibility of the mountains and valley was blurred due to a haze.Had a talk with Mr Sagar from Andhra Pradesh , latest arrival in " Room No 105",on a similar travel route as mine.
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| If visiting Dalhousie pay a mandatory discovery visit to unique Sadar Bazar. |
Throughout my " Solo Travels" in India and across the World never ever felt lonely or bored ,always meeting new travellers and at times travel acquaintances became friends , thanks to the digital World.Also ,the hobby of blogging and planning my own sightseeing keeps me engrossed and active unlike " GROUP TOURS" where you are just another tourist passenger.At 1615 hrs made my way out of the hostel and onto " Garam Sadak/ Mall Road" ,a 1.5 Km walk for lunch cum dinner at Gandhi Chowk situated on the West of Dalhousie.
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| Street food on Dalhousie Mall Road. |
On the way came across a group of juvenile monkeys performing monkey trick acrobats on the tree, a hilarious site. While filming them these young brats threatened me by snarling and I gave way afraid they might snatch my phone mistaking it to be food. Gandhi Chowk is more lively than Subhash chowk,more traffic and more people because of the Dalhousie Mall.Subhash Chowk is more upscale and plush with less crowd, mostly tourists.There is a hotel,hostel or some rental accomodation in every nook and corner of Dalhousie and wonder how many of them are actually profitable.Dalhousie is less crowded than other hill stations of North India and very suitable for couples as it is less commercial with sparse crowds during off- season.Hot " Gulab Jamuns" is a popular street sweet food in Dalhousie .VIDEO :- A busker singing on Dalhousie Mall Road.
Lunch cum dinner was 250 gms " Grilled Cat Fish" costing Rs 250 at the one and only " Amritsar Special Chicken " that also excels in fry fish.
Dalhousie Mall was crowded with tourists and heard a Sikh Busker sing excellent Hindi/ Punjabi songs.A nice long lonely walk through Mall/ Garam Sadak road in the twilight night.
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| Shopping and eating on Dalhousie Mall Road. |
All good things come to a end.Last day in Dalhousie before departure for Mcleodganj tomorrow.Taking life easy, nothing more to accomplish in " EXTREME SPORTS" . In fact in Dalhousie I created " WALKING RECORDS" at my young age of 65 years , averaging 7 Kms daily.The cold weather helps prevent heat fatigue. .Met new hostel acquaintance Mr Sagar from Andhra Pradesh and Mr Ayushi from Agra at the hostel.Travelling across India and staying in hostels you meet people from different States of India while in Foreign Countries it is guests from different parts of the World .Saturday Night was " Bonfire Night" on the terrace garden of " The Hosteller " with quite a large crowd. A guest group had come from Punjab with a large speaker and thanks to them it was a Punjabi party atmosphere upto late night at " The Hosteller ".Hostel Manager Subodh Das sporting long rock style hair was a avid trekker/ mountaineer and got to learn about mountaineering in the Himalayas as also surprised that there was a long waiting list for admission into the best mountain training academies in India.Mr Ayushi,a chemistry professor had been on a scooter ride with fellow hostelite actor Mr Prameesh .Pandit to Chamba Town, a distance of 55 kms.He showed me his days adventure photos of temple and the lake.MOST IMPORTANTLY THE LANGURS,MACAQUES AND STRAY DOGS OF DALHOUSIE NEVER MADE ME FEEL LONELY WHILE WALKING KILOMETERS.Got to study " MONKEY GANGS" and stray dog territorial behaviour akin to Late Primatologist Jane .Goodall studying chimpanzees in Africa.VIDEO :- BONFIRE get-together in the roof top garden of "THE HOSTELLER"
Excellent end to Dalhousie travel and also discovered that conquering cold weather required layers of clothing.So far so good.
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| "Eevolve Dharamkot -Eco Hostel" farmhouse with its open air lawn restaurant in Lower Dharamkot of Mcleodganj.A village within a township and Dharamkot is famous for its Yoga,spiritual meditation and yoga teaching classes.Packed during the summer season but almost a Ghost village during winter with all hotels and homestays in the vicinity at minimum occupancy.A Ripley's Believe it or Not. For 3 Nights i lived all alone in my room in this palatial Bungalow hostel, akin to owning the property.Later i came to know that during my lone stay 3 Himalayan bears in the dead of the night had walked down the mountain staircase shown in this photo into the village below in search of food.Same was captured on CCTV by a neighbouring farmhouse. |
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| Dharamkot in Mcleodganj is World famous for its Yoga institutes. Here i am in front of "Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre" situated on the hill just above my hostel "Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco Hostel". "Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre" was founded in 1985 by Yoga Master Sharat.Arora .He was a longterm student and assistant teacher of Shri B.K.S .Iyengar,the founder of "IYENGAR YOGA",and considered one of the best yoga Guru's. The Institute is closed during winter as is almost entire Dharamkot that thrives on the spiritual/yoga tourist Industry. |
Sunday(11/1/2026)Departure Dalhousie and arrival Mcleodganj:- Wearing 4 layers of upper clothing bid adieu to " The Hosteller " in the cold morning at 0600 hrs and made my downhill walk through the well lit mountain pathway.This hill locality was total hotel and resort accomodation .From Subhash Chowk it was the loneliest downhill walk at 0615 with not a human in sight barring a car or two that passed along the road.Finally after a long lonely walk was at the Bus Station.Familiar " Vaishno Dhaba " was the only tea shop open and as usual had tea and a local snack.Bus departure was prompt at 0715 hrs with the ticket to Dharamshala costing Rs 350.A long drive and on the way spotted some wildfowl and a Himalayan pheasant, lucky wildlife sightings.At 0945 hrs had a stop at Nurpur Town for a short refreshment break.Entering Kangra valley, the majestic Dhauladhar mountain range came into view and passed alongside Kangra Airport.Finally at 1200 hrs reached Dharamshala bus stand.From the bus stand squeezed into a shared taxi paying Rs 25 and it was approx a 6 Km uphill mountain drive to Mcleodganj bus depot.From Mcleodganj Bus depot hired a private taxi costing Rs 200 for the 3 Km drive to " Eevolve Dharamkot- An Eco Hostel" situated next to " Himalayan Iyengar yoga" centre in Lower Dharamkot.
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| Plush new hotels along Bhagsu road in Lower Dharamkot of Mcleodganj situated on one side of the mountain slope in close proximity to "Eevolve Dharamkot-Eco Hostel". Prime plush hotel locale of the Hill station. |
Finally arrived at my destination and again had to walk up a flight of stairs to a cute bungalow type resort/ hostel.Manager Mr Pranav Kapoor checked me into the ground floor of the palatial 2 storey bungalow style hostel. Was allotted " Room No 101" and bed "D" on the ground floor having 2 double deck beds that could accommodate 4 guests.Cold wave was intense and this particular month is off- season for tourists.Lunch was " Paratha/ Dahi", excellent in the biting cold.Later, after a hot water bathe had a conversation with Mr Pankaj.Jaiswal the housekeeper cum overall caretaker of this bungalow style resort having just 2 floors.Pankaj explained me the location and layout of the hostel which during summer gets filled with mostly Israeli tourists as also does all the other guest houses in the vicinity of Dharamkot.A very seasonal tourist business cycle .
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| Plush ultra modern buildings on Bhagsu road of Lower Dharamkot village.Could be mistaken for the costliest buildings in Mumbai,India's real estate capital. I only hope Dharamshala,Mcleodganj and Dharamkot do not evolve into plush "HILL STATION TOWNS" as building constructions destroys evergreen mountain forests besides hastening the process of "CLIMATE CHANGE". |
In winter only Indian tourists wanting to experience snowfall and intense cold weather would visit Dharamkot but sadly this year snowfall has been delayed or might not occur at all although temperatures go to negative.Last year there was no snowfall but the year before had heavy snowfall and Pankaj showed me photos of the same.Climate change at work at Hill stations in Himachal Pradesh? Too much construction activity of building new houses or resorts is resulting in chopping and clearing a bit,piece by piece of the dense conifer forests which could be resulting in less moisture and hence lack of rain and snow. .Dinner was " Chicken curry / Rice" and befriended the local vicinity cat at dinner , a beautiful tabby with spots akin to a Bengal cat."Laila" was the local resident dog of the farmhouse, a mix breed having its own outdoor bedding in the open air bungalow compound .
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| A notorious opportunistic semi-stray cat that came over to "Eevolve Dharamkot-Eco Hostel" for food . The food bowl is for "Layla" ,the resident pet dog but other dogs as well as this cat do feast on Layla's bowl food.Strangely i didn't observe any fights or aggression between these pets. |
There was a bowl kept in the compound as a food bowl for pets and seems besides " Laila" the resident dog another dog from the vicinity also helped itself to the free meals.Typical village atmosphere except this was not a coastal South Indian village i am accustomed to but a prime hill station village..First time during my travels I experienced farmhouse living in a hill station in India , being the lone tourist besides a few resort staff.This classic resort hostel is normally full during summer and this is one advantage of off- season travel." The Hosteller " in Dalhousie had excellent room insulation from cold and excellent warm blankets but the same was not the case in farmhouse style resort " Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco Hostel " that had thinner blankets and the room more exposed to the atmosphere and hence felt the intense cold.I was the lone resident for the night ,a farmhouse style bungalow accomodation in prime yoga land and spirituality hill station of India.Finally my body and warm clothing adjusted to the cold weather and did get a decent night's sleep.Hostel WiFi was excellent and a necessity as this hostel is a top tourist destination for non-Indian foreigners during summer, mostly Israeli tourists.Amazing and incredible India with its diverse geographical climates within a single country.Won't be surprised if most of the Dharamkot/ Mcleodganj regular summer foreign tourists are enjoying India's cool winter on the beaches of South India while North India freezes.Few Countries in the World have such diverse climatic conditions within its boundary.
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| BHAGSUNAG TEMPLE in Bhagsu village of Mcleodganj.The main temple is a stunning architectural masterpiece, adorned with intricate carvings and sculptures. It is built in the traditional Himachali style of architecture and has a beautiful wooden roof. Surrounded by lush green forests, the temple offers breathtaking views of the mountains.The temple pool which receives spring water from a perennial spring that flows into the pool through 3 water pipes is believed to have healing properties and is a popular spot for devotees and tourists to take a dip during the warm summer months.. |
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| View of "BHAGSU NAG TEMPLE" swimming pool as filmed from the temple courtyard.During warm summer months pilgrims as well as tourists swim in this pool. |
Monday (12/1/2026)Lower Dharamkot in Mcleodganj:- Strange that the temp was indicating 7*c in Dharamkot although I found my room colder than in Dalhousie. Error in temp calibration or my own psychological miscalculation? At early morning -2*c temp in Dalhousie I felt warmer than in +7*c in Lower Dharamkot.A main factor for lower temperature in the vicinity of " Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco Hostel " farmhouse could be the fact that there is a dense Deodar tree forest on one side of its boundary that creates a excessive cooling effect.Truth is stranger than fiction.Decided to get out of my comfort zone and after getting dressed stepped out of " Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco Hostel" farmhouse with no one in the vicinity and walked downhill towards Bhagsunag Temple.Was surprised on seeing modern concrete buildings,most of them hotels on the downhill path towards Bhagsu village centre .Came across a street side Dabba and breakfast was " Omelette/ Paratha/ Tea" costing Rs 160.Most importantly I had shaken off my " Cold Phobia" with the weather being normal and cool rather than chill cold.Came across a branch of "The Hosteller" hostel at Bhagsu village centre,a plush modern building.A little ahead downhill from " The Hosteller " is a narrow road leading to Bhagsu market and further ahead one of the important Hindu religious temples" BAGSUNAG MANDIR" .Anyone is allowed to enter the open air temple complex irrespective of religion.The Bhagsunag Temple is over 5000 years old and has a fascinating history .The temple has a freshwater spring where pilgrims take a holy dip, and a beautiful waterfall is located just a 20-minute walk from the temple.This waterfall was now dry during winter and best viewed just after the Monsoon season..Entered Bhagsunag temple and most amazing is the perennial constant flow of spring water from three pipe channels that empties into a swimming pool type of reservoir..
Akin to a swimming pool tourists and pilgrims take a dip in this natural swimming pool but today it was empty due to the intense cold winter weather.
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| Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association Stadium,Dharamshala.One of the most beautiful stadiums in the World and at 1457 mtrs,the highest altitude "INTERNATIONAL TEST CRICKET" ground in the World. The scenic Dhauladhar Mountain range of the Himalaya's forms one side of the natural boundary of this small cricket ground stadium that can accomodate 21,200 spectators. |
Came across 2 young tourists who had completed the " TRUIND TREK" in 6- 7 hrs staying overnight at Truind and returning the next day.Travel educates.
From the temple walked back towards Bhagsu village centre and spotted a bus stand opposite " The Hosteller " hostel.
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| Sightseeing the City of Dharamshala. |
On inquiry was told that there was a local bus from Bhagsu heading to Dharamshala and hence decided to wait for the bus and alight in Mcleodganj Town.Boarded the bus at 1000 hrs , the ticket costing Rs 10 and during the journey suddenly had a change of mind deciding to go all the way to Dharamshala and visit the " Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association Stadium".Extended my ticket costing Rs 20 extra and it was a nice long 6 Km downhill mountain drive to Dharamsala. At Dharamshala inquired the bus to the Cricket stadium which was on the opposite side of the road.Boarded the bus with ticket costing Rs 10 and it was quite a long bus ride to the " Cricket Stadium bus stop".
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| At Anglican(Protestant) St John in the Wilderness church in Mcleodganj. Built in 1852 and dedicated to St John the Baptist. In the Churchyard is the memorial and final resting place of Lord Elgin,the Viceroy of India(1862-63). |
It was a short downhill walk towards the cricket stadium and on the way came across a herd of sheep walking along the road ,a sight I saw in a city after a long time.Finally reached the stadium visitors gate which had a long queue and payment was only through digital mode.For the first time in my life after arriving in Dalhousie got addicted to using the digital mode of payment as I found it convenient ,especially when dealing in small denomination of money.Entry ticket cost was Rs 30 and on entering the visitor's gallery stared in disbelief at the natural beauty of this cricket stadium, although small in comparison to the stadiums in Mumbai.The cricket ground grass was being mechanically trimmed and it reminded me of my visit to the Camp de Nou Stadium in Barcelona , home of Lionel Messi's " Barcelona FC" which I had visited in 2017.World class Cricket stadium in natural beauty and maintenance.Always a soccer player/ fan was never much into Cricket besides playing tennis ball gully Cricket.Was familiar growing up with household cricketer names but never actually a fanatic Cricket player nor fan although as a sportsman always in touch with the sport.In later years took a liking to Cricket akin to Indian cricketer Ravi Shastri taking a liking to " Horse racing" and now a addict of 1 day and T20 Cricket.I am very much into canvassing for the legalization of " SPORTS BETTING" in India which would definitely begin with the game of Cricket, almost a religion in our country with a multi crore illegal betting Industry .Hope I live to place my first legal bet on a Cricket match in a legalized "Bookie Shop" in Mumbai.During my travels I have placed a small bet on Cricket, most notably in Ireland in 2025.When will sports betting be legalized in India where it is legal even in " Third World Country's " ?
All tourists were posing for photographs and suddenly realized i was standing next to the shortest girl in the crowd and through curiosity on inquiry she told me her height was 4 ft.
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| If visiting Dharamshala don't leave without a visit to "Mcllo restaurant" in Mcleodganj Main Town. |
Amazing, reminding me of decades ago coming face to face with Hindi actor Mukhri at the Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai. From the Cricket stadium walked my way back to the local stadium and admired the cleanliness of Dharamshala. Boarded the local bus to the main Dharamshala bus stand.From the bus stand boarded a jam packed Jeep taxi for Rs 25 and was on my way to Mcleodganj. On passing alongside the historic church of " St John in the Wilderness " told the driver to stop and decided to visit the church.Entered this historic church built in 1852 and dedicated to St John the Baptist.The Christmas crib was still on display inside the church which is famous for its Gothic construction and Belgian stain glass painting.After the church visit walked all the way to Mcleodganj Town centre.Crowded with locals and tourists, a bustling marketplace.Lunch was " Mutton curry/ rice" at " Mcllo restaurant and bar" into which I just stumbled accidentally stumbled into little realizing it was the " Celebrity Haunt" of the " Who's Who" who visited Dharamshala city. Framed photographs of the Dalai Lama's historical entry into India, International cricketers and celebrities hung against the restaurant wall.Clicked a photograph with " 007 James Bond" actor Pierce Brosnan as I am a great fan of the " James Bond Franchisee". My most expensive meal of the tour where I mimicked " Andre the Giant" for inspiration in consuming my huge meal actually meant for 2 diners.This is the main reason I avoid expensive restaurants or hotels unless it's just for a drink since as a solo diner at times find it difficult to consume the entire meal and i hate wasting food.
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| "Mutton curry/Rice" in celebrity "Mcllo Restaurant" at Mcleodganj Main Town.Framed Photo's of celebrities who have dined here are hung along walls inside the restaurant premises.As a " 007 James Bond " Franchisee fan clicked a photo alongside the framed photographs of Pierce Brosnan. |
After lunch decided to head back home and hired a autorickshaw costing Rs 120 to my home away from home " Eevolve Dharamkot - Eco hostel".At the hostel met Ms Rashi Dubey who runs " Eevolve Dharamkot -Eco Hostel" and another hostel on a lease basis .Conversing with her and having travelled across almost entire Europe was right in predicting that " Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco hostel" has more of foreign guests and winter in North India is definitely off- season for a European tourist in India who would head to South India's beaches and coastal locales.Amazing India.Travel educates.
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| " Namgyal Monastery ( Dalai Lama's Temple)".This temple is also known as Namgyal Tantric college and is the personal Monastery of the 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet.The monastery's key role is to assist with rituals involving the Dalai Lama of Tibet. Its main tantric practices reportedly include those of Kalachakra, Yamantaka, Chakrasamvara, Guhyasamaja, and Vajrakilaya. Following the Tibetan uprising of 1959, Namgyal Monastery relocated from Lhasa in China to Dharamshala, India, where it continues to be active to this day. Namgyal (Dharamshala) has nearly 200 monks (up from 55 in 1959), representing all four main Tibetan monastic lineages. |
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| " Mcleodganj- Dharamshala " cable car station on Dalai Lama Temple road in Mcleodganj. |
Tuesday (13/1/2026)Lower Dharamkot in Mcleodganj :- As mentioned ,except for the extreme cold that made me miserable was happy to have a entire hill station farmhouse hostel to myself .First time in my life stayed overnight for 2 days all alone as a tourist in a hostel accomodation.At 0830 hrs the staff arrived and employee Pankaj came along with a family of Indian guests which meant I would no longer have the entire bungalow estate to myself.Breakfast was omelette/ Tea at the hostel and after breakfast walked the long downhill familiar route to Bhagsu village centre.
Watched a pack of mules being loaded with cement bags at one end while near the market observed mules being loaded with general cargo ," The Ship of the Mountain hills " in India.Boarded the 1000 hrs bus to Mcleodganj Town centre.
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| Main Market/Dalai Lama Temple Road lined with shops selling Tibetan handicrafts ,clothing and gemstones.Plush street having hotels and the only Mall in Mcleodganj. |
From Mcleodganj Town centre walked along Main Market road with its Tibetan clothing shops onto Dalai Lama Temple road, the main shopping and business street in Mcleodganj Town.Numerous shops on both sides of the narrow road .On one side of the road were plush permanent shops while on the other side were hawker stalls all dealing in Tibetan handicrafts and Tibetan culture.Very plush street also having plush hotels like the 5-Star Natraj hotel which has swimming pool.Purchased a pair of gloves costing Rs 500 for future use in cold towns or cities.Finally after a long walk reached the entrance gate of " Namgyal Monastery ( Dalai Lama's Temple).This temple is also known as Namgyal Tantric college and is the personal Monastery of the 14th Dalai Lama Tenzin.Gyatso of Tibet.
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| Main entrance passage into "Namgyal Monastery" |
The monastery's key role is to assist with rituals involving the Dalai Lama of Tibet. Its main tantric practices reportedly include those of Kalachakra, Yamantaka, Chakrasamvara, Guhyasamaja, and Vajrakilaya. Following the Tibetan uprising of 1959, Namgyal Monastery relocated from Lhasa in China to Dharamshala, India, where it continues to be active to this day. Namgyal (Dharamshala) has nearly 200 monks (up from 55 in 1959), representing all four main Tibetan monastic lineages.On my way to the temple met former Dalhousie hostel room mate actor/ writer Mr Prameesh.Pandit who had arrived from Dalhousie yesterday and akin to me was sightseeing the Town.
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| Rotating the "TIBETAN PRAYER WHEEL" in Namgyal Monastery. |
Entrance into main Namgyal Temple had strict security check and entrance is free.After entering the temple complex made my way to the main prayer hall.From the main prayer hall walked onto the main outdoor hall that had " Tibetan Prayer wheels". The view of the Mcleodganj township and the Dhauladhar mountain range in the background was awesome from the Namgyal Temple Complex.Observed that from Dharamshala and Mcleodganj side, the Dhauladhar mountain tops in close proximity in most places seemed almost bare with not much ice formation but just granite rock unlike the views from Dalhousie. After the temple visit walked back leisurely towards Mcleodganj Town centre and came across the " Mcleodganj- Dharamshala " cable cars making their aerial journeys .The cost of a return trip by " Cable Car was Rs 800 and Rs 550 for a single ride.Excellent for tourists who have never ever been on a cable car ride.Lunch was excellent " Chicken curry rice" at " Ram Punjabi Dhaba" on Bhagsu road costing only Rs 120 that suited my appetite quantity.My daily single way auto fare from Mcleodganj to " Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco hostel" in Lower Dharamkot amounted to Rs 120, same as this excellent cheap meal.Truth is stranger than fiction.As a " SOLO TRAVELLER" it is private transport that is atrociously expensive , especially in tourist locales .Relaxed near the taxi stand on the public benches, people watching as well as updating my travelogue.Was amazed at the timidness and intelligence of the huge thick fur coated stray dogs.Numerous in Mcleodganj akin to Dalhousie.
There were less monkeys in Mcleodganj and Bhagsu village in comparison to Dalhousie and that too only Macaques and not the larger langurs.
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| Scenic view of Mcleodganj as seen from Namgyal Monastery |
Today was the celebration of " Lohri" festival in town and 2 Bonfire sites were made, one near the " Mcleodganj Taxi stand" and the other at Mcleodganj Town centre next to the bust of Sardar Vallabhai Patel.
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| Tibetan handicrafts on sale on Bhagsu Road of Mcleodganj. |
Later strolled around the " Bhagsu Road" locality of Mcleodganj which was less posh than Main Market road and Dalai Lama Temple road.A narrow mountain road used by large vehicles that has Tibetan hawkers and shops on one side and restaurant and hostels on the other side of the road. Italian cuisine seemed to be popular in the restaurants on Bhagsu road.At 1700 hrs the " Taxi Drivers Union" devotees after performing religious Puja rituals lit the Lohri pyre.Prasad packets were distributed and I was given a prasad packet.Later at 1730 hrs the main Mcleodganj Town centre Lohri pyre patronized by eminent residents of Mcleodganj was lit and this ceremony of prayers and rituals was very formal and disciplined.
After observing the Lohri celebrations getting a auto-rickshaw back to Bhag locality in Lower Dharamkot was the biggest worry due to traffic jams and absence of autorickshaws at the main autorickshaw stand.
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| Formal "LOHRI CELEBRATION" rituals conducted at Mcleodganj Main Town centre next to statue of Sardar Vallabhai Patel. |
Finally on advice from a local stood near the Town centre and to.my luck passengers alighted from a autorickshaw which I then hired for the steep mountain journey to home away from home " Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco Hostel".On arrival at the hostel ,the staff and proprietor were in the process of performing the Lohri ritual.Owner Ms Rashi. Dubey ,her sister Bhavya and Manager Mr Pranav Kapoor performed the main Puja ceremony.After lighting the Lohri pyre got into a conversation and was surprised to know that Rashi and Pranav were fans of English rock concerts and along with their friends would be flying to Mumbai for attending the Lollapalooza Concert at the Mahalaxmi racecourse .It is a small World.After the departure of the management, the staff of the hostel continued Lohri music celebration into the night with local music music from the portable speaker while I relaxed in my Igloo style room.Extreme cold was giving me sleepless nights,even with a advantage of being a insomniac.Intolerance to extreme cold weather was one reason I never ever thought of migrating to a European " First World Country" during my employment struggling years although I did have a opportunity with most of my closest childhood and Marine Engineering batch mates migrating. Extreme European or Canadian winter cold is tolerable to me as a tourist for a month or weeks but not for permanent residence. Ahoy !
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| On " Naddi View Point" at Mcleodganj situated at a altitude of 2000 m( 6600ft).View of the Dhauladhar Mountain range and tourist spots through a telescope with a guide explaining me the sites. |
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| Dal Lake situated at a altitude of 1775m(5823 ft) and named after the Dal Lake in Srinagar.Situated 2 Km west of Mcleodganj near village of Tota Rani on Mcleodganj-Naddi road. During my visit the lake was partially dry and construction activity along its bank.A famous approx 200 year old sacred Shiva Temple is on its bank. |
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| Handicraft shops on the pathway to "NADDI VIEW POINT" |
Boarded the bus to Mcleodganj and at Mcleodganj Autorickshaw stand inquired autorickshaw charges for sightseeing " Nadi point" and later dropping me at Dharamkot. No bargaining as prices are fixed and for a hire charge of Rs 500 began the long 4.5 Km drive from Mcleodganj autorickshaw stand to Naddi Viewpoint.It was a uphill mountain drive and on the way came across " Dal Lake" situated at a altitude of 1775m( 5823ft) and named after Kashmir's Dal Lake.The lake was undergoing some construction along it's periphery and it resembled a stagnant pool of water as during winter the lake dries up.There is a sacred Shiva Mandir near the lake which receives many devotees. Finally reached " Naddi View Point" situated at a altitude of 2000 m( 6600ft) and akin to a package guided tour told the driver to wait for half an hour while I did my brief sightseeing.As I walked into the narrow entrance passage leading to the viewpoint was hoping I didn't waste money as the entrance pathway seemed ordinary.On arriving at the mountain side akin to a large canvas painting was greeted with the beautiful sight of the Dhauladhar mountains and valley below .The Dhauladhar mountain chain loomed in the distance but with very less glacier ice on its crest and that too only in trickles across it's granite face.All reviews I read said that end of December and mid January was snow season in Dalhousie and Mcleodganj and hence a unbelievable mountain top sight in mid- January. Climate change is a factual reality and not a climate doomsday soothsayer 's imagination.
Walking along the viewing pathway realized I was alone having the entire mountain canvas view to my viewing convenience as being tourist off-season the entire locale was deserted .
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| Tibetan monks seated at "Naddi viewpoint" thrilled with the view from my binoculars. Picturesque mountain and valley scenery akin to a canvas painting. |
Came across a lone idle tourist guide with a telescope for sightseeing various points and I could have been his first customer of the day.For a charge of Rs 20 he showed me the various viewpoints, beginning with the famous most popular Triund trek campsite followed by the Guna Devi Temple dedicated to Goddess Kali and the Nadi river point in the valley below which was dry, save for a slight trickle of flowing water.Guna Devi Temple trek is a 4 Km trek from Naddi village.On my return walk came across two Tibetan monks sitting on a bench admiring the mountain views.One of them requested me for my binoculars and they were thrilled of the views as seen through the binoculars.From " Naddi Viewpoint " drove to Dharamkot,the final destination.On alighting at Dharamkot entered the prominent lone restaurant " Himalaya Tea Shop" and over a cup of tea whiled away my time having some rest and listening to Hindi songs played over the restaurant's music system.Dharamkot is famous for its " Meditation Centres" and " Yoga Clinics" attracting tourists from all over the Globe .Just next to the restaurant was a huge gate leading to a estate with the board " Himachal Vipassana Centre".There are lots of forest trails starting from Dharamkot. The most famous moderate " Triund" trek having a elevation of 2847 m( 9425 ft) starts from Dharamkot.From the hotel just walked across to the dense forest viewpoint which has dense conifer tree's and surprised to see wild langurs happy in their dense forest canopy.Spotted a few Macaque monkeys while driving to Naddi Viewpoint but not a single Langur in the town among human habitation.Thanks to my binoculars ,here in the dense Dharamkot forests got to closely study the natural wild forest dwelling langurs and not the langurs raiding trash cans and being fed by humans as seen in Dalhousie.
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| Dharamkot Village.A favourite of Israeli Backpackers during Summer. |
Akin to Late Jane Goodall and her study of chimpanzees spent almost a hour observing these Langurs swinging from tree's, eating a specific tree's leaves for food and caring for their young.Was hoping against hope to sight a Himalayan Black bear but definitely not at this elevation .From " Langur Study" walked towards Dharamkot market which has cafe's and massage centers besides shops selling exotic clothes.Most shops were closed due to lack of tourists as this was tourist off - season.Numerous home stays and rooms for rent and Dharamkot was definitely less fancy than Lower Dharamkot and Bhagsu village in terms of plush hotel buildings.Further up the mountain path from Dharamkot is " Upper Dharamkot " having mostly homestay lodgings. Finally decided to make my way back to home away from home in Lower Dharamkot and inquiring directions towards landmark " Himalayan Iyengar yoga center " took the downhill shortcut pathways finally reaching " Eevolve Dharamkot-Eco Hostel ".Lunch was " Chicken curry / Rice" at the hostel, excellent. While having lunch a solo European tourist checked into my room and after lunch made acquaintances with Italian Mr Leonardo based in Berlin and a translator by profession.So now I had company and would not be the sole guest resident in this bungalow hostel.After some rest in the room later in the evening walked down to Bhagsu village.Closely examined the plush hotels in Lower Dharamkot and Bhagsu village amazed at the money invested in plush buildings that could rival the best in India's costliest property market, Mumbai.Travel educates.Walked through Bhagsu Bazar where most shops were open but no crowds.
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| Dharamkot shopping street. Empty as it was tourist off- season.Excellent Fashion and cheap designer clothes. |
Had my favourite street snack of Pani Puri and purchased a pair of bananas.Sat on a bench next to the forested road facing " Green View restaurant and guesthouse" for some rest, surprised that.my.legs were taking a lot of punishment at my young age.Suddenly a beautiful tabby cat approached and sat next to me.Took some photographs and a video before it disappeared into the the forest undergrowth.Later spotted another 2 cats chasing each other in the forest undergrowth.Akin to the Langurs in the Dharamkot forest spent almost half an hour observing the behaviour of these cats.Finally these 3 cats emerged from the undergrowth back into Civil human habitation. Later observing their cat antics inside a plush film star style decor bungalow building realized these were not stray but free roaming cats whose permanent home was plush " Green View restaurant and guesthouse ".Back to hostel after a bathe made myself comfortable near the Bonfire in the Courtyard along with hostel staff meeting Mr Abhishek. Kumar ,assistant manager for the first time and had a good discussion with journalist / PhD student Ms Bhavya Dubey as also listening to excellent music .At night was not alone as Leonardo was on the next bed and the entire room was not to myself.With 4 to a room it would have been congested as is the case during peak tourist season.
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| At the KANGRA FORT spread over 463 acres of rugged mountain terrain..The fort is also known as 'Nagarkot' and 'Kot Kangra', built by the Katoch dynasty of Rajputs.This fort stands on a hillock between two rivers (Manjhi and Banganga), among the foothills of the Dhauladhar mountain range.On Tuesday 4th April 1905 the "KANGRA EARTHQUAKE" left a major part of this fort in ruins and it is now under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India. Has been ruled by many dynasties including the Mughals and the British.The Kangra Fort is also the oldest and largest fort in the Himalayas as also the 8th largest Fort in India. |
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| At "RANJIT SINGH GATE" ,the main entrance gate into Kangra Fort. |
Thursday(15/1/2026) Lower Dharamkot in Mcleodganj:- Today it was " Municipal Civic Elections " in Mumbai and a public holiday in the city with even the Stock Exchange closed for the day so that Mumbaikars could vote.If in Mumbai i would have voted as i always do .As usual after getting dressed walked downhill to familiar Bhagsu bus stop.Breakfast was a repeat of yesterday's " Butter toast/ Omelette " at Nehria Breakfast N Fast Food " Dhaba.Boarded the bus at 10.00 hrs and on reaching Dharamshala bus stand reconfirmed the morning bus timings to Pathankot.Just by chance a bus was about to depart for Kangra city and boarded the same to view the historical Kangra Fort.
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| View of the top of the Kangra Fort after passing through a series of 7 gates beginning with the "Ranjit Singh Gate" leading through narrow passages. |
Ticket was Rs 50 and a long 17 Km journey to Kangra city bus stand as also a abrupt change in temp to 16* C with a drop in altitude.Kangra City was congested with vehicles and people and on arriving at the bus stop quickly hired a autorickshaw for a return trip to Kangra Fort and back at a cost of Rs 300.It was a 5km drive to Kangra fort , a part of the road trip through a hill gradient.Finally reached Kangra Fort and entry ticket costing Rs 20 is issued only through digital mode. During this travel across Dalhousie and Dharamshala/ Mcleodganj became fluent in making transactions through digital mode as cash payments is not accepted due to lack of proper denomination change,especially with small transactions.
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| View of entrance into "Amir Gate" of Kangra Fort. A grand total of 7 gates to enter the main fort through its Watchtowers and Ramparts. |
Kangra Fort at 463 acres area is a massive Fort complex which could take at least half a day for a proper tour and hence just entered the main Fort and after a few photographs returned back to the autorickshaw and finally the drive back to Kangra city bus stand.Got a connecting bus to Dharamshala and finally from Dharamshala to Mcleodganj Bus depot. Lunch/ Dinner was at 1500 hrs at the one and only " Ram Punjabi Dhaba" where I seem to be the only customer having twice visited this cheap Dhaba that caters to my quantity and the " Chicken curry/ rice" bill amounting to only Rs 220.Dessert was " Chocolate Donut" costing Rs 65 at the plush "Hotel Tibet Bakery" having a variety of pastries and sweets situated on Bhagsu road of Mcleodganj where again i was the lone customer.Tourist season was very slack and most shops,plush or ordinary Dhabas were all empty,without customers.These are business cycles in any business that have to be weathered to remain financially solvent and is best demonstrated in " Stock market cycles".Walked along Jogibara Road in Mcleodganj which is parallel to Dalai Lama Temple road.It is a short cut to Dharamshala for light vehicles in comparison to the main mountain highway for heavy vehicles.At the entrance is the " Gaden Jangtse Lamo Khang" Buddhist temple that is also accessible from Dalai Lama street.Entered a Tibetan clothing shops where clothes were being manufactured.
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| " Gaden Jangtse Lamo Khang" monastery as seen from Jogibara street of Mcleodganj. |
Finally decided to call a end to my tour and hired a autorickshaw and back to " Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco Hostel " that I will remember for a long time for the simple reason as it was the only bungalow hostel I stayed alone throughout my travels barring my parents ancestral home in Barkur in South Karnataka where I broke a record staying alone for 11 long days in a palatial coconut farm house.Of course, that was family property owned by my paternal cousin and just kept locked.Read that travelogue to understand the topographical and cultural differences of North and South India. Check my bloggers list of travelogues . In my cousins huge farmhouse I was a bit hesitant of thieves and snakes while here in " Eevolve Dharamkot-Eco Hostel " it was the cold that made me nervous and miserable causing almost sleepless nights.
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| "Tibetan Handicraft Industrial Society" on Jogibara street of Mcleodganj. All Tibetan employees and after years visited a sewing factory. |
Living out of your normal comfort zone makes you realize your strength and weaknesses and to improve on the same. Visiting Antarctica is my lifetimes travel ambition and hope I fulfill my desire.Later in the evening had a relaxed " Retiree's Walk" towards Bhagsu and couldn't help admiring the ultra plush hotels lining one side of the road.Entered 2 of the plushest hotels and inquired the rentals ,not very expensive. But, " Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco Hostel " had a different old World charm of a independent bungalow lifestyle and my goodluck that I got the pleasure of living all alone for 3 nights in this picturesque bungalow before the arrival of Italian Leonardo.
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| View of narrow Jogibara street of Mcleodganj. |
Travelling off- season has its advantages provided you adjust to drawbacks like weather and lack of popular entertainment. During summer, besides holistic meditation healing classes I am sure there might be many restaurants having " Live music" as entertainment. In the night sat by the Bonfire as usual and Manager Mr Abhishek. Kumar stunned me on informing me that yesterday night 3 Himalayan bears passed alongside the farmhouse bungalow and were captured on CCTV while passing through some other nearby property.When I was studying the langurs from Dharamkot forest viewpoint I suspected that along with natural wild langurs there also should be the presence of Himalayan bears.I was right in my hypothesis and Mr Abhishek.Kumar told me that last month a bear was poisoned by locals at " Bhagsu Waterfalls point" as it would frequently raid shops robbing foodstuff.Wildlife - human conflict is a sad tragedy in all forest buffer zones .Later in the night sitting around the bonfire suddenly we spotted a bush fire on the mountain top that leads to the Triund trek. The night was glowing red on the top of the mountain although thankfully after about a hour the fire died down.My last night of the Dalhousie - Dharamshala travel was at its end.
Had booked a taxi at a hire rate of Rs 800 for commuting from " Eevolve Dharamkot- Eco Hostel " to Dharamshala bus depot .Atrociously expensive for a " Solo traveller" and as i have always mentioned in all my travelogues that in "SOLO TRAVEL", travel by private vehicles absorbs maximum of your travel budget.Finally ,just rested in my room in the cold ,a sleepless night with Mr Leonardo on the next bed. We 2 being the only guests in the palatial hostel estate and after my departure Leonardo would have the entire Bungalow hostel to himself.Rest of the hostel staff lived in a nearby house as also the owners in a separate bungalow.
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| End of the 11 day Dalhousie- Dharamshala " SOLO TRAVEL" .At Mcleodganj a day before my departure by road and train to distant Mumbai in the State of Maharashtra. Incredible Geographically diverse Sub - Continent India. WITH THE COMPLETION OF THIS TOUR I HAD TRAVELLED BY LAND AND SEA ACROSS THE ENTIRE TOURIST RESORTS,CITY'S AND PROMINENT HILL FORTS OF SUB- CONTINENT INDIA. |
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| Dharamshala Main Bus Terminus. |
Friday(15/1/2026) Departure Dharamshala to Mumbai :- At 0300 hrs driver Sameer picked me up for the short 6 Km drive to Dharamsala Bus terminus depot.He took a different route along Jogibara Road in Mcleodganj that in sections seemed a nightmare, absolutely bad and dangerous mountain roads.A slight miscalculation could lead to driving off the mountain into the valley below.At Dharamkot bus terminus in the chill cod while waiting for the bus after years spotted a flock of swallow birds latched onto a section of the bus terminus ceiling.At 0400 hrs in the chill cold of the morning the rickety Pathankot bus arrived and it was comfortable travel and not crowded although a common local bus with ticket costing only Rs 230 in comparison to my short taxi ride from "Eevolve Dharamkot-Eco Hostel" to Dharamshala bus stop.The bus stopped mid-way at a " Chai Dhaba " and it was awesome watching tea being made on charcoal fire with a crowd of commuters around the cooking Bonfire.
After the excellent tea boarded the bus and at 0645 alighted at Pathankot Junction Railway station.
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| On a shivering cold morning "Chai(Tea)" at a village Dhaba on the route to Pathankot by bus. A sight to remember with a crowd of bus commuters squatting around the wood fireplace anxiously awaiting their cup of Chai. |
After inquiries made myself comfortable in the clean waiting room with no decrease in ambient temperature of the cold wave sweeping Northern India.After spending some time at the clean waiting room of the Pathankot Junction station strolled outside and at the entrance of the station were two Dhaba restaurants.Breakfà st was puri/ Bhaji/ 2 teas / 1 Lassi with bill amounting to only Rs 120.Later strolled outside the railway station street having shops selling military styled shoes,jackets,etc and purchased a military style shorts and shirt. Returned back to the station and felt a bit odd at lack of passengers as well as the fact it didn't resemble the station i alighted on arrival from Mumbai.
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| Last Breakfast at a authentic Punjabi Dhaba at entrance to "Pathankot Junction Station". Breakfast was "Puree Bhaji/Tea" followed by the one and only "Punjabi Lassi". "Ripley's Believe it or not" was the cost of the breakfast amounting to only Rs 120 ! If Visiting Pathankot, do have breakfast at this Dhaba. |
On inquiring about " Swaraj Express " was surprised to know that I was at the wrong train station with " Pathankot Cantt" station being the right one as " Pathankot Junction" was only for local Punjab trains.Hired a rickshaw and it cost me Rs 100 for the 4 Km drive to " Pathankot Cantt" railway station.Pathankot seems a chaotic city with narrow badly maintained roads and heavy traffic.Strange for a ultra disciplined army cantonment city .On entering " Pathankot Cantt " station realized I was now at the right station for on my arrival our train had stopped on platform No 2 and today I would be boarding the train to Mumbai from platform No 1.A railway cargo train was on the idle track with a long line of military cargo consisting of a Leyland lorry and huge Bofors type gun on each open air cargo coach.Could be heading to New Delhi for the Republic day celebrations.A sight I had seen for the first time in my life.Akin to watching a demonstration of India's military hardware.Pathankot was 13*c temp but seemed as cold as Mcleodganj , a cold wave sweeping North India.Both Pathankot Railway station and toilets were clean ." Swaraj Express 12472 " was prompt at 1345 hrs and boarded " S3 Seat 73" .A long journey with extreme cold at night akin to being back in the mountain hill stations of Dalhousie and Mcleodganj. Sleepless night .
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| Pathankot Cantt Railway station. 27 hrs Train journey from Pathankot to Mumbai . Most importantly the train arrival in Mumbai was on scheduled time ,unbelievable as the fog and mist did slow the train in North India. Travel educates ! |
A long day's travel and the next day on Saturday on arrival at 1220 hrs on arrival at Surat changed over to warm clothing, removing my jacket .Incredible sub- continent India.In a span of 30 hrs road and train travel journey I had travelled across 8 different states of India.Began my road journey in cold temperatures of +3* C in Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh switching to train travel in Pathankot in Punjab in chill weather of +3*C.
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| Shops specialising in sale of "MILITARY FASHION" clothing outside "Pathankot Junction" railway station. |
The train travel passed through the States of Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Delhi, Rajasthan, Gujarat and finally punctually on time terminated at 1610 hrs in hot sunshine of +28* C temp in my home city of Mumbai in the State of Maharashtra.Finally a 27 hrs train journey had reached its conclusion in Mumbai and for yours truly also the conclusion of a successful off - season winter tour of the hill stations of Dalhousie and Dharamshala. Incredible climatic geographical topography of India experienced just by train travel let alone physical travel.Travel educates. From Bandra station hired a taxi at a rental of Rs 400 and was at home in the warmth of Mumbai.
